East Sikkim

Gangtok
Wreathed in clouds, Gangtok, the capital city of Sikkim is located on a ridge at a height of 5500 ft. With a spectacular view of the Khangchendzonga, the town provides the perfect base for travel through the state. Once an important transit point for traders traveling between Tibet and India, it is today a busy administrative and business centre and presents an interesting mix of cultures and communities.
Although the town is now dominated by concrete buildings and other manifestations of modernity, pockets of tradition still manages to flourish with monasteries and monks coexisting peacefully with the latest international style trends.
Gangtok is a cosmopolitan town which offers the tourist all possible amenities. Hotels are available in a range of prices along with a variety of eateries serving exotic cuisine. Shopping complexes, cyber cafes, night clubs and pool parlours abound for those so inclined.
But inspite of all the offerings of the modern world, a sense of mystique still permeates the town, lent perhaps by the spell cast by prayer flags fluttering in the breeze and the startling beauty of distant snow peaks.
Gangtok may be suffering a little from the ills inherent in unplanned growth and the ever growing tourist industry, but it still manages to retain a fair measure of beauty in its surroundings with all its diverse elements melding into one richly flavoured experience.
The Gangtok Ropeway
For a bird’s eye view of Gangtok take a ride on the bi-cable Zig-back ropeway. The one kilometre ride from Deorali to Tashiling Secretariat costs Rs. 30 one way and is completed in 7 minutes. Each cabin has the capacity to ferry 25 people at a time. The ropeway has been fitted with fully computerized modern safety mechanism of international standards.
On clear weather the ride offers a great view of the Khangchendzonga range apart from an overview of Gangtok town and the valley below. After you get off at Tashiling Secretariat you can walk to the Ridge Park and soak in the beautiful surroundings as well as visit the ongoing Flower Festival held just below the park.
Places of interest around town
Namgyal Research Institute of Tibetology
Set amidst a small forest a little below the main Gangtok bazaar, the institute was established in 1958 to promote serious study and research on Buddhism. It is considered the most prestigious in the country with its rare collection of Lepcha, Tibetan and Sanskrit manuscripts as well as Buddhist religious art and antiques.
Do-drul Chorten
Close to the Institute is located one of the most sacred Chortens or stupas of Sikkim. Around the Chorten are 108 prayer wheels with the Buddhist mantra ‘Om Mane Padme Hum’ inscribed on them. The Chorten was built by Trulshik Rimpoche, a great Buddhist teacher in 1948 to and placed inside the Chorten are a complete set of Kanjur holy books and other religious objects.
Chogyal Palden Thondup Memorial Park
Located below the Institute is the park dedicated to the memory of the last king of Sikkim, Chogyal Palden Thondup. Inside the park is a statue of the Chogyal and also resting places done in Sikkimeses style. You can also view many different kinds of orchids in this park.
Enchey Monastery
This monastery is built on a site blessed by Lama Drutob Karpo, a great Tantric master who is believed to have flown here from Maenam Hill and built a small hermitage here 200 years ago. The monastery is located amidst a dense forest and offers a spectacular view of the mountains and also of Gangtok town.
The Ridge
The Ridge, a small stretch of flat land above Gangtok town is one of the most attractive places here and is a favorite haunt for both tourists and locals. It stretches from the gates of the Palace of the erstwhile Namgyal kings to the White Hall building built in the memory of the first Political Officer of Sikkim, Claude White. Close by is Mintokgang, the official residence of the chief minister. The park on the Ridge has a small ‘Hava Ghar’ to rest in as well as benches to sit on. You can also have instant photographs taken here by the many camerapersons who haunt the place.
No visit to the Ridge will be complete without seeing the Flower Festival. A special glass house, opposite the White Hall displays the rich floral heritage of Sikkim, beginning with the Orchid Show in March and continuing all year round with display of many varieties of flowers.
MG Marg
MG Marg, the main street of Gangtok town is a great place to chill out in the evenings. The country’s first litter and spit free zone comes alive after 5 pm when no vehicular traffic is allowed into the marg. You can sit at the Titanic Park and listen to the piped in music played for the listening pleasure of visitors or just walk down the mall and take in the carnival like atmosphere, especially during the tourist season. The Mall is lined with shops on both sides of the road so shopping becomes an added pleasure.
MG Marg is also the venue for the annual Gangtok Food and Culture festival held in December each year when Sikkim’s multi-cultural cuisine, along with music and dance performances are showcased. This event attracts a large number of locals and tourists each year.
Cottage industry
Tashi View Point
Around 6 kms from Gangtok towards North Sikkim, the Tashi View Point is another popular destination, its USP being the spectacular view of the Khangchendzonga range that you can see from here. You can also catch a glimpse of the Phodang and Labrang monasteries on the opposite hill. There is a park just above the View Point where you can have a little picnic or visit the cafeteria for hot coffee, momos and other snacks.
Hurhuray Dara
This view point is located at Namnamg just next to the Sikkim Legislative Assembly and gives you an excellent view of the river and valley below. You can go for a walk along the cliff side or just sit in one of the benches and marvel at the natural beauty surrounding you.
Ganesh Tok
Located on top of a ridge about 7 kms from Gangtok is this small temple dedicated to Lord Ganesh. The view from here is truly breathtaking with snow peaks providing the perfect backdrop for a panoramic view of Gangtok town. There is a small cafeteria here which provides beverages and snacks.
Hanuman Tok
The Hanuman temple here is maintained by the Indian army and is believed to have wish fulfilling powers. Located at an altitude of 7200 ft, the spot provides another great view of Gangtok town and its surroundings. A short distance away is the Royal Cremation Grounds of Lukshyama where members of the former Namgyal dynasty are cremated.
Bulbuley Zoological Park
Located just above Ganesh Tok, the park is home to a number of animals living in open enclosures in their natural habitat. If you are lucky you might see the Red Panda, Sikkim’s state animal, the barking Deer, Tibetan wolves, panthers, Civet cats or even the Himalayan Black Bear. The park recently acquired ‘Kush’ and ‘Urbashi’, a snow leopard pair. Definitely worth a visit.
Excursions

Tsomgo Lake
35 km from Gangtok and at an altitude of 12,310 ft, the ethereally beautiful Tsomgo lake is a must on every visitor’s itinerary. A winding road through rugged mountain terrain and sharp cliffs takes you to Tsomgo, which means ‘source of the water’ in Bhutia language. The lake derives its water from the melting snows of the mountains surrounding the lake. Of legendary beauty, the lake looks different at different seasons. In winter the placid lake remains frozen with the area around it covered in snow while in late spring the profusion of flowers in bloom adds a riot of colours around the lake.
The lake is associated with many myths and legends and is revered by the Sikkimese as sacred. It is believed that in olden times, Buddhist monks would study the colour of the water of the lake to forecast the future.
The lake is also of special significance for the Jhakris [faith healers] of Sikkim who congregate here annually on Guru Purnima, which coincides with the festival of Raksha Bandhan, from all over the state to offer prayers.
For the tourist a visit to the lake offers a wonderful outing. Rides on colourfully decorated yaks and mules are offered at the lake site, which also has a variety of eating stalls serving snacks and beverages. Snowboots and gumboots can be hired here. The lake also provides the perfect backdrop for the holiday photo.
Tsomgo lake is open for both Indian and foreign nationals, however foreign visitors have to be in a group of two or more and have to apply for a visitors permit through a registered travel agency.
The Department of Tourism conducts package tours by bus to the lake during the tourist season. You can also avail of the local bus service or hire taxis and jeeps from Gangtok.
The Sikkim Tourism Department has initiated the Tsomgo Lake Project which hopes to beautify the lake periphery and at the same time preserve the fragile eco-system of the area which abounds in rich flora and fauna.
Baba Harbhajan Mandir
The temple lies on the road between the Nathula and the Jelepla pass and is visited by hundreds of people each day. The temple is believed to have wish fulfilling powers and many devotees leave behind bottles of water at the temple which they pick up on their way back as holy water. On Sundays a ‘langar’ is run at the temple which provides free meals to the visitors.
The legend of Baba goes back 35 years when Sepoy Harbhajan Singh of the 23rd Punjab Regiment went missing while leading a pack of mules from his battalion stationed at Tukla to Deng Dhukla, both remote areas located in East Sikkim. A manhunt was launched and it took the army three days to find his body. It is believed that he himself led the soldiers to the site. Soon after, soldiers in the regiment started reporting that Baba had been appearing in their dreams and directing that a shrine be built in his memory. A Samadhi was raised in his memory and believers say that even today Baba visits every night, puts on his uniform and does his rounds. He is worshipped as a saint who grants boons and guards the lives of soldiers posted along the border.
Each year in September Baba takes his annual holiday and travels back to Kapurthala, his hometown. People gather in large numbers and line the route that Baba will take to offer flowers and prayers. A berth on a train is reserved in his name and two orderlies accompany him on the journey. The legend of this Sepoy-Saint grows stronger with each passing day.
Nathula pass
Nathula pass was a major corridor of passage between India and Tibet before it was closed in 1962. Located around 55 kms from Gangtok at an altitude of 14400 ft. the road to Nathula passes through the Tsomgo lake. It is one of the highest motorable roads in the world and is richly surrounded by alpine flora. On a clear day you can even see the road winding down the Chumbi valley. Tourists are allowed to go close to the international border from where you can see Chinese soldiers on the other side of the barbed wire. On specific days the Chinese allow visitors on their side too and tourist of both countries can view each other.
Nathula is open for Indian nationals on Wednesdays, Thursdays, Saturday and Sundays. The visitors have to get the permit to visit the place by applying to the Tourism Department through a registered Travel Agency.
Foreign nationals are not allowed to visit Nathula. Photography is strictly prohibited.
world’s highest atm.
Rumtek Dharma Chakra Centre
Located on the hill facing Gangtok, 23 kms from here, Rumtek Monastery is the seat of His Holiness the Gyalwa Karmapa of the Kargyu sect of Buddhism. The largest monastery in Sikkim it demonstrates the best of Tibetan architecture and is an almost replica of the original monastery in Tsurpu inTibet. The monastery houses some of the rarest Buddhist religious art objects found in the world and is also a world renowned centre for Kargyu teachings.
Nehru Botanical Garden
Just ahead of the Rumtek Monastery is the Nehru Botanical Garden which has a mix of tropical and temperate plants and trees as well as a big greenhouse of exotic orchids. A good place to stop for a while.
The Ipecac Garden, Saramsa
This garden is located 14 kilometres down from Gangtok and is maintained by the Forest department. The six acre garden contains a wide variety of flora including orchids and medicinal plants. An ideal destination for a picnic. A little further down is the Water Garden which has a small swimming pool for children.
Aritar
A four hour drive from Gangtok takes you to Aritar, a peaceful place to spend some relaxing time. You can get first hand experience of life in a Sikkimese village and also visit nearby monasteries or go for short treks around the area. A resort and some tourist lodges are available for accommodation. You could also spend a night in an old British bungalow built in 1895, located below the Aritar lake.
At the junction of Aritar village and Dalapchand is the Lampokhari lake, the only lake in Sikkim where boating facilities have been launched. Boating on lakes is not allowed in Sikkim as most of the lakes are considered sacred by the people. Boat rides here are being conducted by the Aritar-Dalapchand Lampokhari Tourism Development Society, East Sikkim. The lake which is located amidst dense forest has a huge statue of Guru Padmasambhava installed in the north side of the lake, in keeping with the local legend according to which Guru Rinpoche lives in the water body. There is a tourist centre close by but no accommodation is available at the lake site.